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Michael Portillo embarks on a journey across Essex. Beginning on the fringes of London, he takes the underground to the ancient woodland of Epping Forest, with its gnarled hornbeams and beeches, a legacy of centuries of pollarding.

Continuing on the Central Line, Michael visits a historic London Transport signal cabin in Epping which has been preserved by railway enthusiasts. He guides an underground train into Epping station – on a simulator.

At Harlow, Michael visits the house and garden of the town’s chief architect, Sir Frederick Gibberd. Michael hears about Gibberd’s plan for Harlow's new town and discovers the architect’s love of art and sculpture in the garden.

At Audley End, he visits a charming miniature railway which has recently celebrated its 60th anniversary and learns of Audley End House's role as a secret wartime military school.