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I never thought I would be in raptures about the joyfulness of a vegan chocolate cake. It’s true that I first made a version of it – the recipe kindly given to me by Caroline Stearns, my technical guru in the kitchen – when I was giving a supper for a vegan friend, but I now make this as my chocolate cake of choice, and I don’t even need to explain it’s vegan. On top of everything else, it’s incredibly simple to make.