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Quentin Cooper explores the fifty-year history of CERN, the European particle physics laboratory in Switzerland. He tracks the laboratory's development through the 1970s as it slowly drew alongside and then overtook rival institutions in both the Soviet Union and the United States. He talks to those involved in building the twenty-seven kilometre tunnel in which the latest experiment is to be conducted and discovers some of the additional benefits of CERN's pioneering work, including the development of the World Wide Web and the advancement of cancer treatments using particle beams.