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ItÂ’s
often thought you have to climb the highest mountains or the biggest
hills to enjoy spectacular views. How wrong you can be?
This
walk, perhaps more than most, shows how even a relatively short
climb can give you a birdÂ’s eye view of this fine county.
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| Gordon
Hatton |
Gordon
Hatton, a volunteer with the Yorkshire Dales National Park, who
took me on this walk, says the view at the end of this six-mile
ramble is not to be missed.
The
walk begins from the village of Muker, a community of sturdy-looking
buildings, the legacy of its lead-mining heyday in the 18th and
19th centuries which brought in great wealth.
Listen
to Gordon Hatton and Mike Kemp on the walk
You
head off across flower-rich hay meadows of international importance.
Important because farmers donÂ’t use artificial fertilisers.
After
enjoying the colours and smells of any number of wild flowers you
pass through a gate on to the banks of the fast-running River Swale.
Across
a bridge to the other side and follow the path to the bottom of
Swinner Gill, an old smelt mill. On the way keep your eyes peeled
for lapwing, oyster-catchers or sand-pipers.
At
the gill head up hill and eventually youÂ’ll be looking down
on the peaty waters of the Swale. The noise youÂ’ll hear of
running water is that of Kisdon Force, a waterfall. But you wonÂ’t
be able to see it on this walk unless you take a detour.
Head
into the village of Keld which, disappointingly, doesnÂ’t have
a shop or a pub and leave on the minor road which would eventually
take you all the way back to Muker.
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| View
of Swaledale |
DonÂ’t
do that or youÂ’ll miss the wonderful views to come. Because
you turn off just outside Keld to head up on to the fell on the
medieval track way, known as the Corpse Road.
In
days gone by bodies used to be brought this way for burial at Grinton
church yard.
Already
the views are impressive, across the jigsaw pattern of farmersÂ’
fields, but the best is yet to come.
Over
the rise and the valley opens up before you giving you as good a
birdÂ’s eye view of the countryside as youÂ’re going to
get without taking flight.
Muker
is laid out before you like a map. “There isn’t a better
view in the Dales” says Gordon Hatton.

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